Day 10 UKc2c

6 Aug 2013 – Yorkshire Dales

Mon 5Aug 2013 – Day 10 Reeth – Richmond 12.5m/20km  0700-1330hrs

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Started early in the rains, heard that there is an interesting castle in Richmond and hoping to get early in to see the town. Wet path by the lone tree and at the church in Grinton by the river, but pretty even in the rains. Wet wet wet along the riverside but again dressed for this weather.

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Slight uphill towards the village of Marrick and continuing on to Marske. Still wet, thus leaving the camera in the waterproof pouch and decided to push on to Richmond getting in with an afternoon to see this interesting town with a castle. Even managed to buy a rain-cover GBP7 S$14 for the backpack (now into Gator colour, blue raincoat with an orange backpack cover!). Got the hair cropped GPB16 S$32, so perhaps will not colour hair after this hike 🙂

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Richmond is a market town and civil parish on the River Swale and is the administrative centre of the district of Richmondshire. This is the first town on the trail and has a pop of app 10,000. A fine Georgian town which has changed little through the centuries. The 11th century castle (entry GBP4.30 S$8.50) built originally in Norman times and the Church of St Trinity are the dominant features of the town.

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View from the top of the castle into the Market Square. The cobbled streets around the square are a reminder of student days in Dublin’s Trinity College!

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Friary Gardens and Tower

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Not usually a pizza fan but La Piazza*** was recommended by the owners of Butt House in Keld and the thin crust pizza was good (1 small pizza+a glass of wine GBP12 S$24). The room at Willance House (reputedly the oldest remaining house in Richmond) is absolutely charming and now sitting at the bay window enjoying the rains and listening to the church bells chiming for 1800hrs as this blog is recorded. Today’s pix have all been taken in grey and rainy sky, thus not that good!

Night: Mon 5Aug at Willance House Frenchgate Richmond. Room with a view and bathroom attached+breakfast+packed lunch GBP60 S$117

Some people create their own storms, then get upset when it rains – unknown

Days 8-9 UKc2c

5 Aug 2013 – Cumbria Lake District & Yorkshire Dales

Sat 3Aug 2013 – Day 8 Kirkby Stephen – Keld 11m/17.6km 0630-1600hrs

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Leaving KS by Frank’s Bridge to join the path (above 2 pix taken the evening before in search of the path for the next day and the lights were perfect).

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Passing the half way mark of this walk and continuing up away from KS. Hares have become the usual sight over the past days. Interesting benches on the way up to the Nine Standards Rigg.

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Nine Standards is the summit of Hartley Fell in the Pennine Hills. It lies near the boundary between Cumbria and N Yorkshire. The name is derived from a group of cairns. Their original purpose is uncertain but one possibility is that they marked the boundary between Westmorland and Swaledale.

Even with a map, was lost again at the Nine Standards. Headed the wrong direction downhill for an hour to discover a gamekeeper’s home to ask for directions. Andrew kindly explained and drove me up the hill again on his 4 wheeler as not ordinary car could have gone there! The private property belonged to some people who only are here for grouse hunting. So there I was heading thru’ the bog for another half hour up to the Nine Standards again but from another direction…

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There were 3 alternative routes but at least there is a signpost. Took the Blue Route and was told no matter which route, they are just as boggy but the afternoon turn out to be a nice walk after the lost windy walk. Glad to see familiar faces/Daft Wellywalkers having tea at the Ravenseat Farm, the woman with 7 children and 6 were born on the road on the way to the hospital as this is soooo remote!.  Smooth and pleasant walking into Keld.

Night: Sat 3Aug at Butt House, Keld. Room with bathroom attached, dinner+a drink GBP50 S$97 and this is the only location that did not refund Glenda’s deposit not did they let me use what was deposited. Quite a butt… !

Sun 5Aug 2013 – Day 9 Keld – Reeth 12m/19.3km  0700-1330hrs

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A wet start but was prepared for it. A sign that is not so faded and goodbye Keld…

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With all these rains it is no wonder that the scenery is so green, now heading to the Swaledale Valley.

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Considering my weakness in map reading when there are no signs, especially up on the moors, chose the lower route by the River Swale with view of a charming village and fun to go thru’ Gunnerside in dry weather.

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From Gunnerside it was an easy walk by the river all the way into Reeth; happy to get in at a decent time to check out the village and even wrote and mail a few postcards!

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Hello again Daft Wellywalkers, the only people who started on the same day as I did at St Bees and still on the same pace!

Night: Sun 4Aug at Hackney House Reeth. Room with bathroom attached GBP40 S$78

Day 7 UKc2c

3 Aug 2013 – Cumbria Lake District/5

Friday 2Aug 2013 – Day 7 Orton – Kirkby Stephen 12.8mi/20.6km 0630-1700hrs

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Nice weather for walking, not too hot nor wet. Long day taking many small breaks with not much spectacular, but then not towards the end of the Like District. Again over stiles and headed over fields to Ravenstonedale Moor, passing by Severals Village’s archaeological site,  to Smardale Bridge and Smardale Fell.

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Unbelievable, there is a Chinese take-out-Panda and a chinese restaurant-Century here in Kirkby Stephen with a pop of just app 2,000! So far he biggest place to visit. My accommodations for tonight is quite lovely.

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A lovely church by the market square and all kinds of shops on the main street. Also a HSBC Bank but I do not bank with them. Finally managed to find a decent C2C map for S$16 at the visitor centre just across the street from where I am staying.

Somehow all the village churches have been interesting and after being thru’ these villages, one can understand that living in such remote areas in the days where transport and communication were not so accessible, faith in such communities is an important way of life.

Home

Night: Fri 2Aug at Old Croft House, Kirkby Stephen GBP35 S$68 for a room and separate bathroom.

Day 6 UKc2c

2 Aug 2013 – Cumbria Lake District/4

Thursday 1Aug 2013 – Day 6 Shap – Orton 9mi/12.6km 0830-1300hrs

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Walking thru’ Shap, a village at the heart of Britain was quite a historic experience. Had to walked down the main street to get on the trail. No pix of Shap Abbey due to time and stress when passing by it yesterday.  New Ing Lodge has a wall map of the UKc2c in the dinning room. Had fish & chips dinner last night at the Shap Chippy***

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Found the path leading onto the muddy and shitty! farmlands to cross the motorway on the overhead bridge. This is the first time to cross the M6, strange to see the motorway and cars zooming by….

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Crossing the moors all morning, muddy and boggy but at least not misty. Glad to meet the 2 familiar hikers who were at the same lodgings the night before, and also doing the UKc2c. This will probably be the last I see of them and they plan to hike the whole trail in 10 days. One of them has done it many years ago, so the path today must be the correct one!!

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Amazing limestone pavement, quite contrasting views compared to yesterday.

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Got into Orton earlier than expected to find the B&B locked! Had something to drink at the new cafe across the road and walked around the area within 15mins. Delightful village with a church getting ready for a wedding.

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A chocolate factory where one can just about to get everything in chocolate.! Went back to the B&B and dozed on the steps of the entrance! Thought I was dreaming when some familiar hikers from across the road came by, and yes it was the group from St Bees who I though would have been way ahead by now, but the group seemed smaller. Accompanied them to the cafe for tea to discover that 2 of their younger boys did not feel up to the hike. Fun exchanging notes, info and contacts: ‘Daft – WellyWalkers’ with Jeff & Joby (father&son), George and Mark with the long hair. Thank you for crossing paths.

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Cousin Yat-Soon & family are in the area and appreciations to them for driving over to pick me up for dinner in Greystoke (Tarzan), not on the walking UKc2c but on the cycling UKc2c trail. Took us 20mins to drive by Shap (took me 5hrs to walk!!!) on the way to Greystoke. Helen’s cousin owns the Boot & Shoe Pub and thank you to Yat-Soon&Helen for a lovely dinner and a pack-lunch from there. Got back to the B&B by 22.30hrs, had just enough energy to brush teeth and zzzz

Night: Thu 1Aug at Mostyn House, Orton GBP40 S$78 for a room and separate bathroom.

Day 5 UKc2c

1 Aug 2013 – Cumbria Lake District/3

Wednesday 31Jul 2013 – Day 5 Patterdale – Shap 15.5m/25km 0630-1730hrs

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The day start beautifully crossing the bridge looking back into Patterdale, passing by lovely cottages and up up up for nearly 2hrs

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to Angle Tarn where breakfast was served from the day-pack in the company of flock of ducks and a few campers.

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Still continuing upwards not realising that it was NOT the correct path, met just one lone hiker going the opposite direction but did not think to ask him being too stupid…

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Was instead admiring the views which are not on the correct path!

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Thank goodness for Peter and his group, took a different path but at least headed to the correct direction. Appreciations to Norman Crump of Lancaster U and son for getting me into Shap which has an interesting history. Just too tired and frustrated to write but will edit and update another day.

Night: Wed 31Jul at New Ing Lodge, Shap GBP22 for bed (dom-style room with 5 others) and full breakfast) S$43

Day 4 UKc2c

31 Jul 2013 – Lake District-Cumbria/2

Tuesday 30Jul 2013 – Day 4 Grasmere – Patterdale 9m/14.5k 0830-1400hrs

Treat to have the extra time for this shorter mileage day. Got up at 0600hrs as usual to hear the rain, dozed for another hour or so and the rains stopped by the time the feet hit the trail.

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Leaving Grasmere with the view of Helm Crag in the background and slowly ascending a rocky path with the new path under construction parallel to this path across the stream.

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Long climb uphill but was worth all the effort with weather and views like today. Whoever built the stone way further up is an angel. Unlike the rugged ones just on, these are quite a luxury. Turning back to say goodbye to the delightful village of Grasmere.

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Took me 2hrs (others will do in 1hr!) to get up to GrisedaleTarn and it was nice to see a lone camper by the tarn. Must have been peaceful in spite of the rains during the night.

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Heading downwards towards Grisedale Valley to be pleasantly surprised by this Ruthwaite Lodge.

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These stone fences and houses never fail to impress me. And more so now as some of the fences go all the up to where it would take me 2hrs to get to the end of the fence! How on earth did they manage to carry those stone all the way up to these mountains.

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Into Patterdale village passing by St Patrick’s Church where there will be an organ recital tonight. Will try to stay up to attend.

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The centre of the village. Staying in a real working farm app a quarter-mile from the main drag, hopefully not too much baa from the sheep tonight. Pass by this sign post to the farm. Am told that the Red squirrels are a native here!

Night: Tue 30Jul at Noran Bank Farm Patterdale, for B&B +a packed lunch GBP35 S$68

Do not know if there will be time, energy or fast internet access to blog with so many words again! Have been told that tomorrow will be the roughest day of the whole hike… !!!

I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o’er vales and hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host, of golden daffodils;
Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze – William Wordsworth

St Bees

27 Jul 2013 – Stonehouse Farm

References – various online sites
Unforgettable Walks to take before you die: Steve Watkins and Clare Jones
Coast to Coast Path: Henry Stedman with updates by Chris Scott
A Northern Coast to Coast Walk: Terry Marsh
Passing thru’3 National Parks (Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors), thru’ hills, moors and valleys in en entire country, this 301km/191mi starts from St Bees by the Irish Sea to Robin Hood’s Bay by  the North sea. UKc2c is a testament to the dedication of UK’s most famous walker Alfred Wainwright who in 1973 made this walk possible.
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St Bees: between the 6th-9th century, Bega, an Irish princess fled here to avoid an arranged marriage with a Norwegian prince. And so the legend goes, she landed here and lived as a hermit and became famous for her good deeds.. She approached the local land owner Lord Egremont for land to build a convent.
Egremont was not generous and promised Bega all the land covered by snow the next day, considering as it was to be mid summer’s day. Miraculously snow did fell that day and Bega was able to get the land and built the convent.
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St Bees Priory, app from 1150, a blissful and serene place to visit. Was there when I arrived and again the next morning to get inside to make peace with whatever there is to make peace with before a serious hike 🙂
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St Bees School founded in 1593 by Edmund Grindal, Archbishop of York and Canterbury during the reign of Queen Elizabeth !, and such a charming school in an ideal surrounding. Glad to have taken the extra day here to catch up with family and to see this delightful village, highly recommended.
And so the story goes, what a lovely story and a beautiful village to start a hike from…
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Nights: Thu 25-Fri 26Jul in St Bees/Stonehouse Farm: 2 nights+2breakfasts+1packed lunch GBP76 S$148
The function of prayer is not to influence God, but rather to change the nature of the one who prays – Søren Kirkegaard

Milton Keynes – Manchester

26 Jul 2013 – To St Bees

Thu: Train from Milton Keynes – Manchester 1.5hrs – St Bees (change in Carlisle, with 10mins delay and made the St Bees just in time!) 3hrs, GBP36 S$68.

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Thank you KV & Christine for putting me up and for all their kind hospitality.  Drive from GodmanchesterMiltonK Station 1hr. MiltonK is a new station and the only station I have seen where one has their bicycle undercover. According to the police, it looks tidy and we were thinking more on the security side 🙂

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ManchesterP Station is a brand new station and like many modern designs, they lack something!  Had some time to spare and took a short walk around the area which has more character. The fire station and the church across the road are more impressive for these ageing eyes 🙂 🙂

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St Bees is a total contrast from the other 2 mentioned stations, charming and welcoming village.  A walk to the starting point for the hike was quite delightful after a whole day on trains and stations.

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Fri: how lovely to meet up with cousin YEO YatSoon (9th auntie’s only child and son) & family who are starting their summer holiday in this area. The last time we meet was in 2000 and now he&Helen are proud parents of 2 lovely girls. Spent the afternoon catching up and getting to know Merle&Mei-mei who was having an ear infection. Poor baby and she was in such good spirits. Appreciate them for taking time to meet and tkx to YatSoon for bringing a box of old B/W pix from his mother’s times from SIN for us to look thru’.

If you would be known, and not know, vegetate in a village; if you would know, and not be known, live in a city – Charles Caleb Colton

Days 1-2-3 UKc2c

30 Jul 2013 – Lake District-Cumbria

Saturday 29Jul 2013 – Day 1 St Bees – Ennerdale Bridge 14mi/22.6km 0730-1630hrs including breaks

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St Bee’s Head – cliffs with seagulls and the companion of the Irish Sea for app 2hrs on this glorious day.
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Other hikers on the cliffs, St Bees Lighthouse and the coastline of Scotland in view.
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An old lonely bench on the UKc2c 🙂 Birkham’s Quarry and heading east away from the coast to the Lake District.
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Passing the Church at the village Cleator and took a few extra steps deterring to  the Ennerdale Country house Hotel for a cup of coffee and to use the restroom.  Well worth the detour! Heading back to the path, met some locals who had more than enough beers and sun and who insisted that they should be photographed…
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Gradual climb to Dent Hill, a cairn at the top with good view back toward coastline. Steep decent to a valley walk and down to road into Ennerdale Bridge.

 

Night: Sat 27 Jul at the Cloggers/Ennerdale Bridge, Cumbria GBP35 S$68. Thank you David for the load of an excellent map and for your advise.

Sunday 28 Jul 2013 – Day 2 Enneradale Bridge – Honister Pass 11mi/17.7km 0700-1500hrs 

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Soggy and wet as predicted by the weather forecast, no regrets listening to David’s advise by taking the route on the other side of Enneradale Water.
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Heading to Black Sail Hut (most remote youth hostel in England), took a longer break there than usual to get out of the wet boots. Wetter and dangerous accent ahead to Loft Beck, concentrating every step so as not to fall. It is times like these with wet feet and focusing on every step makes me wonder if the sanity is in tact 🙂
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The sun came thru’ towards the end where Honister Slate Mine and the youth hostel are in sight. Rains are again the forecast tomorrow, so best to take pix of the descent to Honister Pass, the YHA to rest the worn-out body and  where the journey will continue tomorrow. Was touched by David from The Cloggers/Ennerdale Bridge to make sure that I arrived safely.

Night: Sun 28Jul at Honister Hause YHA/Seatoller, Keswick, Cumbria GBP18 S$35

Monday 29 Jul 2013 – Day 3 Honister Pass – Grasmere 12mi/19.3km 0700 – 0430

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Wet and soggy at Stonethwaite, more like a stream than footpath!
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The group who crossed my paths since St Bees, ie the past 3 days but today they will head on further to Patterdale.  Will miss their company. Rough climb to Greenup Edge-rocky, slick and wet. No pix, just concentrating on every step.  Unfortunately on the cloudy side when the top was reached.
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Heading towards Grasmere and to Broadrayne Farm, an independent hostel with internet and washing machines. Grasmere, town known for its association with English poet Wordsworth who was inspired by the Lake District but will not have the time of energy to visit the his grave.

Night: Mon 29Jul at Broadrayne Farm/Grasmere Keswick, Cumbri GBP21 S$40

Covent Garden

23 Jul 2013 – Apple Market

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Tue: Happy 2nd Birthday James my 5th grandchild/USA (Linn & Jeff’s #5). For a moment I thought the pix is of his sister! Just goes to show that either time has gone by too quickly or that the eye sight is going downhill with the rest…

Mon: welcome to the royal baby who arrived on one of the hottest days 22 Jul 4-24pm followed by a night of thunders and storms; much-needed rains after over a week of hot dry spells. Will the baby be named James?? Also the day where the bombing and shootings happened 2yrs ago in Norway.

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A lovely 15mins walk from Paul’s to the station, crossing railway lines, blissful residential areas and meadows. Got to the station in time for the 0723 train to realise that my return ticket was for off-peak hours. 1min walk to Ashtead Cafe for a 2 eggs and bacon breakfast started another perfect day.

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Thanks to Paul’s clear instruction from Waterloo to Covent Garden Market (started 7th century). In the 13th century, the monks’ ‘convent garden’ became a major source of fruit and vegetables in London and, for the next 700 years, Covent Garden became inexorably linked with fresh fruit and veg.

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Was just stopping by in between trains to check out stuff for the MacBook Air! Silly me, was looking for the Apple Store at Covent Gardens to discover that the Apple Market was not it. But found the Apple Store across from the market at The Piazza…

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Around 1200 the first mention of an abbey garden appears in a document mentioning a walled garden owned by the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of St Peter Westminster. A later document, dated between 1250 and 1283, refers to ‘the garden of the Abbot and Convent of Westminster’  By the 13th century this had become a 40-acre (16 ha) quadrangle of mixed orchard, meadow, pasture and arable land, lying between modern-day St. Martin’s Lane and Drury Lane, and Floral Street and Maiden Lane.

The use of the name ‘Covent’—an Anglo-French term for a religious community, equivalent to ‘monastery’ or ‘convent’—appears in a document in 1515, when the Abbey, which had been letting out parcels of land along the north side of the Strand for inns and market gardens, granted a lease of the walled garden, referring to it as ‘a garden called Covent Garden’. This is how it was recorded from then on. Info from Wikipedia.

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Train from Covent Garden to King’s Cross. Decided to take a walk to be pleasantly surprised to an impressive St Pancras, originally a medieval parish, now a four in one, church, hospital, hotel and station. London is full of wonderful history and hopefully will be able to check it out more in cooler days some other time…

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Pancras,_London

I’m not smart, but I like to observe. Millions saw the apple fall, but Newton was the one who asked why – William Hazlitt